Saudi Arabia (Saturday, day 2)

Riyadh (Saturday, October 31, 2009)

If I had not lived all that I have experienced the past two days I would have thought I was reading a make-believe story.

Late yesterday, after some sleep, we went about 70 kilometers, motorcade again, to the Al Musmak Palace which was a replica of a 300 years old palace, in the desert, which was captured 150 years ago and was the beginning of the founding of the modern Kingdom of Saudi Arabia in 1902.

Then, a first (and last) for me – a ride on a camel to the neighboring “living history” village replicating the old city of Riyadh. There is an adjoining palace, in use today for heads of state and the Saudi Royal family, It was very traditional while like nothing I have ever seen before in the detail of its design.

Before a traditional Saudi dinner we were entertained by a troupe of dancers from the south of Saudi Arabia near the border with Yemen. To the inexperienced eye they appeared to have had their origins somewhere in Africa but that was not the case they were Saudis.

Today, Saturday, began at 8:00 a.m. with a briefing at the American Embassy. The embassy was in a diplomatic compound, as were all the rest of the meetings we had today. We have certainly not felt a lack of security – the compounds are like fortresses. Buildings are beautiful – white stone or stucco with lots of landscaping. Water for the landscaping is supplied by water piped from the ocean and desalinated.

The new U.S. Ambassador James Smith and his senior staff met with us for about 90 minutes. What a professional group of Foreign Service officials!!

The American women at the embassy were – literally – the first women we have seen in Saudi Arabia except a few off in the distance completely covered, except for the eyes, by the black burka.

Following our embassy visit we went to the government compound that houses many of the various ministries and also the very magnificent “capitol” building. This house the Al Shura Council, the 150 member appointed body (of men) that serve as somewhat of a legislative body. It is very different than ours. We met with the Speaker of the Al Shura and the members of the U.S. Friendship Committee which is what we would call a standing committee.

Following a lunch, with five different meats, that we were given fifteen minutes to eat, we were off, sirens and all, to another government compound to meet with the Ministers of Education and of Health. The minister of Education is a Prince by virtue of being married to the King’s daughter. He is not particularly young and spent most of his time talking about horses in Kentucky and his love of the horse industry.

The minister of Health and his ten or so cabinet members are all physicians, most educated out of Saudi Arabia. We finally met and saw a woman!! She was a physician. Unlike the men she had to ask permission from “His Excellency” to speak and to ask a question. She was completely covered and we could only see a little of her eyes. She seemed thrilled when the women in our delegation talked with her after the formal meeting and even let us take our photo with her – a real taboo for a Saudi woman to be photographed.

All in all this was an amazing day. Now I know why I have been told to experience the Islamic culture you must see it – not just read about it. Quite another world.

I must say that with one exception we have been treated royally and their interest in fostering cooperation seems genuine. Only one high level official refused to shake hands with our women so that is not bad!!

Excuse my typos. Hopefully I will post another interesting day tomorrow.